08 March 2012

Making Your Own Tofu Press

Last week, I bought Andrea Nguyan's new cookbook on tofu for my Kindle. http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2012/03/asian-tofu-enhanced-ebook.html (I also own her Asian Dumplings book on Kindle, which is excellent.) I've only scratched the surface, but it's enticing. I've made the Ma Po Tofu from it twice, and the pork-kimchee-tofu mandu once so far. Asian Tofu strikes me as a reincarnation of Shurtleff and Ayogi's Book of Tofu. My only gripe with Asian Tofu is the lack of technique for making puffy fried tofu.

Anyway, I was paging through Asian Tofu and dreaming of making fresh tofu. I had everything I need, but a press. The plastic press looked kinda dinky, and I didn't want to pay out the nose for an expensive Japanese wooden one. I also wanted something reusable, so the disposable loaf pan idea was also out. After looking at the picture of the wooden press in the book, got to thinking that I could make this. So I went to Home Depot and came back with about 10 bucks worth of poplar cuts and gorilla glue.


07 March 2012

Irish Soda Bread

Saint Patrick's Day is coming up quickly, and I've been put in charge of cooking the Paddy's Day feast at my local community center. We're doing the required corned beef, potatoes and carrots, braised cabbage, horseradish, and of course soda bread.

Soda breads became popular in Ireland because they could only grow soft wheat reliably. Hard wheat just wasn't suited for that region. Soft wheat flour lacks the protein needed to trap the gasses produced during yeast fermentation, so the Irish needed to turn to chemical leaveners to do the job. At first, this was done by a combination of acidic buttermilk and one of a variety of alkaline carbonate salts. Sometime in the 19th century, baking powder started to be incorporated into soda breads. Our modern baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) eventually became the default alkaline in the Western baking world.

It's worth mentioning that soda bread is part of the farl and scone continuum of the British Isles. If you can master soda bread, you can easily master the others. In Ireland, the addition of the raisins and caraway technically puts us in the category of tea breads (sweeter and garnished soda breads) rather then soda bread proper. This is, then, an Irish American version of soda bread. Since we generally eat it only once a year (if that), we can be a little extravagant.



Irish Soda Bread Formula in Baker's Percentages
AP Flour .....................100
Baking Soda ...................1.25
Salt .................................1.25
Sugar ..............................5
Baking Powder ...............5
Butter ...........................10
Raisins ..........................20
Caraway Seed ................1.25
Buttermilk .....................70
....................................213.25
Mixing Method: Biscuit

Scale at ~1lb (450g) per unit

Makeup: Ball shaped loaf scored with a deep cross.

Baking: 375 deg F ~30-40 minutes.

NB: Plump up the raisins with a little hot water after scaling, then drain.

08 September 2011

Chicken Katsu

Woah, how did I forget about this place for the entire summer? Anyway, here is a post on chicken katsu, which I made the other day. Pictures forthcoming.

Katsu is a perfect example of loan cuisine. The Japanese picked up the cutlet technique (along with many others) from European traders. In fact there is an entire genre of Europe/Western via Japan cuisine. Blahblahblah...

Ok, I forgot to get eggs, otherwise I'd have done the standard breading procedure. I got good results with this erstaz method.
1) Butterfly chicken breast and pound them out. Cut them in half. Season.
2) Make a thick batter of wheat flour (bread), water, salt, fresh ground black pepper. Toss with the chicken.
3) Dredge the cutlets in panko. Press the crumbs down to get a good coat.
4) Let rest to get good adhesion. (optional)
5) Pan fry. Takes surprisingly little oil.

Basically, I could have just said, make a chicken cutlet.

So, what do you do with your crispy, brown, and delicious cutlets?

Traditionally, it's served with thinly shredded cabbage, rice, and a Japanese version of A1 steak sauce, and maybe a wedge of lemon. Also popular are katsu sandwiches. As for me, I like katsu curry. Steamed rice, Japanese style curry (to be subject of an upcoming blog post if I do it sans curry brick), and sliced chicken katsu.

There is also another exceptional Japanese fried chicken dish. Karaage. Nuggets of chicken are marinated and tossed in starch (varies from potato, corn, rice flour, and/or wheat flour), then fried.

13 May 2011

Chicken and Blackmushroom Baozi

Sorry, not much introduction for this entry. Instead of a short history and etymology of baozi I'll just leave it at: Hey, I made some baos tonight!

Here's the formula for baozi dough I've been using. It's more of a northern style dough then Catonese style. That means it's not cake like in texture, nor as sweet. Northern style bao and mantou are chewier.

100 Bread Flour
2 Yeast
2 Oil/Fat
2 Sugar
1 Salt
1 Baking Powder
60 Water

Mixing method: Straight Dough

Whiteness of the finished product wasn't the highest priority for me. It is in China, and a lot depends on type of flour and dough ph. Higher protein levels and higher ph can both make the dough less white.

The filling for this batch I made with:
Dried black/shitake mushrooms
Hand minced chicken breast
Small diced carrot
Minced ginger and garlic
Oyster sauce
Hoisin sauce
Flour/water slurry for thickening

I stir fried the stuff together, added the sauces, and used the slurry to thicken it up. You want a very thick filling, paste like even. With these seasonings, it was a bit close in flavor to classic bbq pork puns.

Make up method for bao is pretty simple. Let dough proof once, section and round off balls, flatten and roll balls (thinner around the edge, thicker in the middle), fill, pleat, short second proof, cook.

The classic cooking method is to put them on a little piece of wax paper and steam them, but I took a technique from Shanghai and cooked them as sheng jian bao. It's esientally the same method as a pot sticker.

Look at the filling to bread ratio, you won't get that from a restaurant!

26 April 2011

Pierogi!

I <3 pierogi. Believe it or not, I've never had them before now. Yes it's true. They sound like something I'd like. They feature a lot of my favorite ingredients: potato, mushrooms, saurkraut, dry fruit. Somehow I'd just never gotten around to eating them.

Flash forward to today. I was getting a hankering for potato and cheese, and my healthy diet resolve was starting to yield to the pressure of animal fries from In~n~Out and those wonderfully soggy chili cheese fries from Tommy's. Then bam, it hit me. Pierogi! I had all the stuff I needed to make at home, and I could satisfy my cravings while continuing my explorations of the dumpling continuum (Pretentious!).

Boiled and panfried pierogi finished with black pepper.

I didn't work from a recipe, just from a classic flavor combination. Here's what I added:
2 ea onions, small diced and caramelized
8 oz sharp cheddar, small diced
2 c instant mashed potato (Don't judge me! It's what I had in the pantry.)
TT salt
TT black pepper
AN water
cold water jiaozi dough

 This will yield you a bunch of pierogi. I've only made 15 for lunch, and it barely made a dent in the filling. Sadly, I forgot to add garlic, which would be tasty.

Forming is the same for jiaozi, pleats optional and not traditional. Boil them in salted water until the dough is cooked. Serve them, or crisp them up in a oiled pan on the stove.

I'm going to try and make some prune pierogi with some of those prunes haunting my cabinet.

Pimple Dumplings aka Knot Dumplings aka Mian Geda

Pimples? Knots? Chinese homophones, what a pain. In this case it's only a curiosity and not a source of family discord (like if you just called your MIL a horse because you forgot the right inflection). Geda aka 疙瘩, can mean either a pimply warty skin bump, or a knot. A similar issue presents itself with mian aka 面, which can mean noodle or face, among other things. So in naming the noodle you could end up with 面疙瘩, the noodle, or 疙瘩面, the pizza face. (at least according to google translate).

Which is the 'authentic' translation? I'm going to have to go with pimple dumplings. It's descriptive, as they do look like warty pimply bumps. It's also poetic, fitting in with Chinese food naming tradition. Further, there is a long world wide tradition of giving sophomoric names to foods (cf Italian nun farts, nun breasts, priest stranglers, etc). That said, I doubt I'd menu this item as pimple dumpling. Given current perceptions of Chinese dining predilections, your average western diner might assume they are being served literal pimples.

These noodles are featured in a genre of soups called pimple soup aka gedatang,疙瘩, as well as stews. The soup is euphemistically called 'dough drop soup.' I have a hunch they are also stir fried like Nian Gao, but I haven't confirmed this.

Back to the cooking!

There are three ways to make this dumpling that I know of. The first is you make a thick batter and drop little bits off into boiling or simmering liquid. The second, novel approach, is to drizzle water into a pile of flour while stirring to make clumps, which are then cooked like pasta. The third is to make a dough, and break off little nuggets to form the dumplings, then boil them. I chose to test this second approach because I already used the first and third in Western applications.

For 100g of flour, I used 56g of water. I used AP wheat flour. You could also try rice flour, in all or part. You may need more or less water, so don't rely too much on the recipe. The amount you need is heavily dependent on humidity and the qualities of the flour. Your mileage WILL vary. Drizzle in a little water, and stir. Once you get lumps, shake the bowl so the big lumps settle to the top. Push them aside, so you can drizzle water onto and stir the unincorporated flour and smaller dough bits. Continue until there is no more loose flour. Break up any lumps that are too big with your fingers. If you are going to let the raw dough sit for any length of time, toss with a little flour to keep them from sticking together. When you're done, it should look something like this (sadly these were not as uniform as I would have liked):

The dough ready to cook,

Cooking the dumplings is pretty easy, Just dump them into simmering or boiling liquid for ~1-2 minutes (but always rely on your senses, not the clock). The cooked dumpling should have a firm chew, with the dough being completley cooked. There should be no raw flour taste or texture. I cooked this batch in boiling salted water since I was making pasta for dinner, and not soup. (I also tossed the cooked dumplings in the pasta sauce to make a real dog's dinner. Sadly I forgot to take a picture of cooking and cooked dumplings by themselves). Cooking directly in the soup seems to be the preferred method since it contributes extra body. The dough seems like it would handle par cooking well, but it cooks so quick, I wouldn't bother for most applications.

The bottom line? It's a quick, simple technique that is suitible for both Western and Asian applications. In fact, it closely replicates the taste and texture of one of my favorite restaurant's spaetzle. I'm adding it to my repertoire.


The cooked dumplings (the white lumps).

I want to give a special shout out to liuzhou and heidih, two commentators on the eGullet Society of Arts and Letters forums, www.egullet.org, who helped me track down this dish after I forgot the pinyin for the name. Also, two handy blog posts:

http://sunflower-recipes.blogspot.com/2009/09/chinese-spatzle-soup-gedatang.html
http://eatingasia.typepad.com/eatingasia/2011/04/dumpling-knots.html

23 April 2011

Cocktail Notebook

Three things I want to try:

Dark And Stormy- Dark rum (supposed to be Gosling's), ginger beer (hard to find a good ginger beer here, maybe DIY it?), lime juice. On rocks.

French 75- Champagne, gin, simple syrup, lemon juice

Guinness Punch- Guinness, sweetened condesed milk, cinnamon, nutmeg, cocao powder on top.